Restaurant Reviews

La Scala by Penny Zako (27-4-11)

The exterior has a contemporary look, with large glass windows and modern signage which gives the impression of a classy establishment offering fine dining – you will not be disappointed!

Upon entering the well-lit and spacious reception bar we were greeted by authentic Italian staff and offered an aperitif. My eyes were drawn to the lighting which reminded me of upside down wine goblets, there is light music playing and comfy chairs to relax in.

Seated is a real mix of diner, families, business men, romantic couples and friends of Alfredo. There is a gentle buzz of conversation and laughter which adds to the relaxed atmosphere. Any dress code seems to go, dressed up for that special occasion or smart casual for midweek get together – all seem to be welcome at La Scala.

Alfredo the owner comes over to chat with us and to take our order. He is from Lucca in Tuscan and sources a lot of his ingredients from this Italian region, in order to be true to the flavour and textures of his dishes. He tells me that the menu is inspired by closely guarded Luccian recipes passed from one generation to the next; Alfredo has a real surge of passion about this.

The dining room is like entering a penthouse suite; I would describe the décor as air décor meets contemporary. It has a tasteful tense of luxury but yet manages to maintain a homely feel. There is a mix of tables and booths as well as a separate room seating around 12 for those wishing for a private dining experience / Alfredo tells me in order to achieve the look and ambience, the design features were imported from Milan.

To start our meal we were bought homemade foccacia with a grassy olive oil and balsamic dip. I opted for “Capes ante vestite” – scallops filled with Parma ham and parmesan cheese grilled and served on a bed of rocket with sundried tomato pesto dressing. They are presented in their shells; the saltiness of the ham marries beautifully with the sweet scallop and the richness of the sauce. My husband, John, chooses “Calamari fritter” – deep fried squid with caramelized red onion mayonnaise. It is cooked to perfection with a wonderful crispy batter, the homemade mayonnaise is sublime (definitely one I will attempt to recreate at home).
Alfredo works the dining room well; he is eager to talk to the customers and gives well informed recommendation as he is an accomplished chef himself.

Our next course is pasta, all homemade and cooked slightly el dente; as it should.
The Ravioli al brasato is well seasoned and served with just the right amount of sage butter and cheese fondue, the fried sage leaves adds to the texture of the dish. The “Pappardelle all argentina” has the right ratio of meat to pasta the zesty duckling Tuscan style ragu has a good blend of herbs, which does not overpower the tender duck. To accompany our meal we sip on a well-rounded “Vernaccia di San Grimminguano” white wine – recommended by the Sommelier.

Manuela, Alfredo’s wife introduces herself; as well as supporting her husband in getting up and running the restaurant. She also teaches at the local boy’s grammar school. She tells us that they are very eager to encourage families to the restaurant, as is very traditional in Italy and a welcome change to the roam in this country.

They have a dining area on the 1st floor, which is available to hire for breakfast, lunch and evenings – a perfect venue for business meetings with a difference! They also hope to attract the informal diner at lunchtimes and those wishing to have an after-work cocktail maybe accompanied by a light antipasto dish.

Our Piatti Principali – main courses arrive my fillet is cooked well, unfortunately the medallion of crispy polenta is disappoint soggy and I felt that the salad garnish was totally unnecessary and detracted from the dish. However the Madeira sauce made with an excellent stock more than makes up for these slight imperfections. John’s “Saltimbocca” was divine and I loved the accompanying “Zucchini fritas” which added another texture and dimension to the dish.
Although totally contented with the generous portions we had already received. We felt we had to sample the Italian ice-cream, very much like a fruit sorbet, full in flavour, light in texture, a perfect end to a heavy meal and cleansed the palette.Here they served their Italian cheeses with honey and marmalade! I am intrigued! The tangy marmalade is excellent with the gorgonzola.

Alberto the head chef comes out of the kitchen at the end of our meal what a character, 30 years experience he has cooked all over the world in the USA, Japan, Australia, Korea, China, Ireland, and now Sutton Coldfield. He is passionate and truly dedicated, he tells me it is important to stay true to the core ingredients of a dish and he likes to use seasonal, local ingredients and fresh stocks. His passions and love of food is evident in his style of cooking, the dishes he produces makes dining here a truly enjoyable experience for anyone who loves good food.

The location is fantastic, easily accessible day and night and caters for all ages and palettes. A suitable venue for all occasions. From reading the good quality well thought out menu the scene is set – a good evening is in store, fine food, great atmosphere – a must dine destination!

Look out for the live entertainment evenings coming soon. I look forward to returning in the autumn to sample Alberto’s venison and wild boar. Well done La Scala and good luck.